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For Thanksgiving, I made the mistake of eating mashed potatoes with truffle oil, at North End Grill, and my wimpy GI system rejected it. I wrote “Two-year review of The North End Grill: Truffle oil should be banned”. Therefore, it is somewhat vindicating to read today that the NY Post’s food critic agrees.
In their year-end review of food trends from 2013 that need to go away, they wrote, “Truffle Oil. Typically made from sunflower seed oil and not an amoeba of truffle, it turns every dish it touches, from Cherry’s tuna tart to Anassa’s cuttlefish risotto, to skank.”.
Some of the rest of the review is pretty funny:
“Artsy-Fartsy Plating: If I want Joan Miró or Wassily Kandinsky, I will go to MoMA or the Guggenheim. Mannered, painterly presentations like those at The Elm belong on canvas. You’re ready for a nap by the time the waiter explains all the blobs and squiggles. And where are we supposed to start eating?
Celeb Chefs: who sell their name, but not their talent, for quick bucks. Masuharu Morimoto lent his prestige to Tribeca Canvas, a laugh-riot attempt at Asian-American “comfort food.” The Iron Chef’s fiasco turned to mush in a matter of months. He’s now relaunched it as an entirely new restaurant, Bisutoro. But he could have saved our money, and his reputation, from the outset.
Steakhouses: We have more than enough of them, and of claims made by each and every one that it is unique if not revolutionary. Beef is beef, potatoes are potatoes — and $135 is too much for a dish even if you take home enough for a week.
And Of Course, Horrible Desserts: “Deconstructed” sundaes, napoleons and tarte Tatin are bad enough. But the year’s most disturbing meal-ender was Juni’s fresh white truffles atop vanilla ice cream. Could two wonderful things taste terrible served together? Must you ask?”