Review: Barchetta (Italian seafood)

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Update September 10, 2014- The NYT’s Pete Wells reviewed Barchetta with one-star and said, “In 14 years as the chef at Esca, Mr. Pasternack has proved to be one of the city’s most resourceful and skillful seafood cooks. It goes without saying that Barchetta, where Mr. Pasternack’s partner is John Meadow and his chef de cuisine is Christian Goerner, is a seafood restaurant. It is a very good one at times, but not at all times.”

Update May 3, 2014- Chef Pasternack was on CBS Saturday.

May 1, 2014- By Steven E. Greer, MD

I dined at the newly opened Italian seafood restaurant on 23rd Street and 10th Avenue called Barchetta. It is an LDV Hospitality establishment. Chef David Pasternack runs the kitchen, with Chef de Cuisine being Christian Goerner. Pasternack is still the chef at Esca, as well.

The location and building are suitable for a fine dining restaurant. Down the block is the High Line outdoor attraction, with brownstone houses and blooming trees on the street (The Red Cat is nearby too). I had not been in this area for a long long time.

I started with the Crudo tasting of six different pieces of fish, all raw. It was Italian-Pacific-Rim sushi, really. Chef Pasterneck has a reputation for getting the freshest possible fish, even catching it himself on occasion.

Actually, the first things presented to me were olives and bread. The bread was fresh and moist, indicating a good attention to detail.

Next arrived the cavatelli dumpling pasta with mozzarella. It was nicely firm, Al Dente, and the red sauce was crisp and tangy.

The main entree they selected for me was a rather large pork chop. The grilling patterns were appealing, and the meat was still tender, not dry.

Lastly, a nice chocolate cake landed on my table. It was almost of a flourless variety.

I was not too interested in wine, but they twisted my arm. I am glad they did, because the white went well with the fish, and red was nice with the pork.

Service was attentive and pleasant. I am a stickler for good service, and nothing annoyed me, so that is probably a high compliment.

In between courses, I asked the couple next to me how they heard about Barchetta. They knew of Esca, and the husband had actually been in the previous night with a business group of eight. He obviously liked it enough to bring his wife the next day.

After dinner, I walked south, and about seven blocks down, I coincidentally walked by another LDV spot called “No. 8”. It is an exclusive small lounge that normally only allows in A-list Hollywood celebrities. I mentioned my recent dinner to the doorman. I was not trying to get in because I was dressed in a hoody and running shoes, but the doorman invited me in anyway. It was a nice touch.